Loud noises from pipes are not only unpleasant to the ears, but are also a sign that there is a problem in your pipe system that needs your attention. It’s nothing out of the ordinary, and there are quite a few reasons why pipes make these knocking sounds.
Your pipes may be making a rattling noise due to water pressure issues, loose fittings, a faulty valve, or a loose washer. We advise you to check the source of the noise or the entire plumbing system for the problem.
We’re going to explicitly address this nagging problem below and provide some quick and easy fixes to help get your plumbing back up and running in no time on your own.
6 culprits of knocking pipes and how to deal with them
Bumpy pipes can lead to more serious damage if left unaddressed for too long, which is why we’ll help you identify some of the culprits here.
1. Loose pipe fittings
Free pipe fittings are quite popular when it comes to pipe hammering. Like many manufactured items, pipes are subject to wear and tear after prolonged use. Home pipes that carry hot and cold water to different outlets can become detached from their retaining straps.
As they loosen, the pressure of the water passing through them can cause the pipes to hit the wall or become unstable, making knocking sounds. However, you are very likely to hear this sound only when the water is flowing.
To correct the problem of loose supply pipes, you must attach the loose pipes to a beam or bracket with insulated pipe clamps. This hack instantly solves the problem and stops the annoying noise.
However, be careful not to make the attachments too tight as pipes usually contract and expand due to water temperature. Also, if the pipes are enclosed in a wall, you can stuff a soft pad or foam at the exit and entry points of the pipes to get rid of the noise.
2. Water stroke
Another cause of the pipe hitting can be traced to the sudden change in the flow and direction of the water; this can make a loud knocking noise, especially in situations where the shower is turned off quickly or a toilet valve is turned off suddenly. By doing so, the water can crash into the valve and water is already flowing.
Dishwashers, washing machines, and ice makers are major causes of water hammer due to their solenoid switches that turn off the water instantly instead of through a gradual process like a faucet.
To fix this problem, if a washing machine is the cause of the knocking sound, switch to a model with hose threads and screw them onto the hot and cold water inlets at the back of the machine. Once you find where the supply lines connect to the drain, turn off the water, remove the hoses, attach the stoppers with a screw, and reattach the hoses.
Also, if you want to install the arrester directly on the washing machine, turn off the water supply, check behind the machine and find a suitable place to connect the discharger.
For dishwashers, you can find the hammer stop attached between the wall faucets or the feed line. Dishwashers typically require hammer stops with 3/8-inch male and female compression fittings.
This problem is easily addressed in homes built before the 1960s, such as those included installed air chambers that can collect water. When you turn off the water supply at all faucets, you can help drain excess water from the pipes and kill the hammerhead.
Here’s how to achieve this;
Step 1: Turn off the water supply to your building at the main outlet
Step 2: Turn on the tallest faucet in your house
Step 3: Open the lowest faucet, usually outside or buried in the basement. Then drain all the water, which means the air inside the chambers will be refilled.
Step 4: Go back to turn off the lowest faucet and the primary water source.
Step 5: Leave the overhead faucet running until you notice the spray has stopped, then turn it off.
Newer homes have an upgrade – water hammer arresters that act as landing pads for your pipes, helping them effectively handle the shock of water hammer. However, if this fails, we advise you to call a professional installer to install new ones.
3. High water pressure
High water pressure can also cause your pipes to make knocking sounds, even if they are tightly attached to the wall. The ideal water pressure should be between 40 and 80 psi. Anything over 80 psi means you need to install a pressure relief valve.
If the problem is caused by hot water, reduce the temperature slightly. However, if this hack fails, install a hot water expansion tank that will trap excess pressure and protect your pipes.
4. Copper pipes
You may hear plumbing knocking if you have copper pipes installed in your home, these pipes expand especially as hot water passes through them and can rub against each other causing a loud noise.
The solution to this threat is easy; all you have to do is lower the temperature setting in your water heater so your pipes don’t expand excessively.
5. Water temperature
Knocking usually happens in hot water pipes more than in cold water pipes. This is because when hot water passes through these pipes, it expands and contracts, and when it does the former, it can hit the wall or pipes next to it making a noise.
NB: There are cases where you cannot see these pipes because they are inside the wall; you have to do a mini construction in your house. But come home, your pipes are within reach and within reach, saving you stress and money.
6. Accumulate in the water heater
In this situation, you will notice random noises coming from your pipes in the morning or evening while the water is not flowing. This problem is caused by sediment building up in your hot water heater, and those sounds you hear are steam bubbles leaving the deposits below the water heater tank.
You can fix this by giving the water heater a good flush. Check below the steps on how to wash the heater. The solution below addresses two types of water heaters – gas and electric.
Step 1: You must turn off the switch on the water heater thermostat located at the base of the gas water heater tank. If yours is electric, find your house breaker box and turn off the power source.
Step 2: Turn off the gas supply to the gas water heater – the gas line that feeds the thermostat and pilot light – and turn off the valve.
Step 3: Turn off the water heater’s cold water line. The cold water valve is located next to your water heater.
Step 4: Be sure to return the water to a sink or any water outlet. Maintaining these throughout the process will prevent a vacuum in the lines when emptying the hot water tank.
Step 5: Attach a garden hose to the drain valve – make sure the other end of the hose leads to an outlet that can help flush out the water, and if your water heater is underground, you can get a small pump that can help pump out water from the basement. TO ground floor.
Step 6: Turn on the faucet and empty the tank until the water becomes clear and sediment-free. If the pipe has too many particles, it may be necessary to drain all the contents.
Step 7: The next step is to flush your water heater by turning on the cold water faucet that leads to the water and letting it run for a while until the water runs clear.
Step 8: When you are done with the process, be sure to fix things and wait a few minutes to allow the water to heat up and make sure the hot water is flowing by turning a faucet to exit.
You can flush the boiler every 6 months or a year, depending on your preference and the mineral content of the water supply. In rare cases, some people wash their heater every month because of a lot of sediment.
Final words
While hitting pipes is a big inconvenience, finding your way around them is easy and doesn’t necessarily require a professional unless things get complicated. Always keep your plumbing box handy and stocked as knocking pipes are mostly recurring and there is a good chance you will deal with them often if you use a lot of hot water in your daily activities.
Finally, if you live in an area with high mineral content, you will most likely flush your water heater tank annually or even less.
